FITZROY CROSSING - POPULATION: 1,500

WEDNESDAY 28 - FRIDAY 30.08.2013: Fitzroy Crossing was a creation of necessity - early settlers to the Kimberley needed a place to ford the mighty Fitzroy River. The old crossing was the shortest and safest route. Focus shifted from the original town site of Fitzroy Crossing when a modern stilted bridge was built downstream in 1974. Again on the advice of fellow travellers, we booked into Fitzroy River Lodge & Caravan Park - excellent. Visited the Information Centre and acquired all the necessary details for some interesting sightseeing. With great enthusiasm we set off - first stop a glass blowing workshop. Lovely products, but we did not make a purchase. 

ORIGINAL FITZROY CROSSING

Visited the original Fitzroy Crossing and following the circle on the map went looking for the "Old Townsite & Original Post Office". Did search, but we were only able to find a memorial. Later found out that "we lost the original post office in the flood".
Undaunted, we headed for the Crossing Inn and arrived around 2.30pm. The lady (indigenous), at the Information Centre had said "this is our local" and we thinking she meant Fitzroy Crossing local, just nodded. Crossing Inn has welcomed travellers and locals since its establishment on 5th July 1897 by Joseph Blythe. Originally a "shanty inn and trade store" that served prospectors, bullock team drivers, cattle drovers and locals, it has operated on the same site ever since... although floodwaters have meant continual rebuilding over the years.

CROSSING INN

Followed the signs to the Garden Bar and came across a tall metal rectangle fence surrounding the bar. We kept walking round looking for a way in - a chap opened a grilled gate and advised that this was the entry. We puddled in to find all indigenous patrons - some estimated 60 in total. A chap came up to us and asked where we hailed from and whilst answering we ordered our two glasses of wine. We kept talking while the bartender disappeared and then returned to advise that we could have a beer, but wine was not served till 5.00pm - exited without having a drink! We have encountered many rules in the NT and WA regarding the purchasing of alcohol and have been asked to provide photo ID - we were flattered till we realised it was not an age based request! From what we have seen we are still not convinced the restrictions are working - too many loopholes.

THE CAN SHED MOVIE THEATRE

The Can Shed Movie Theatre is a large shed, formerly used as a soft drink factory and a garage, that has been converted to a 40 person cinema which screens feature-length films several times a week - not the night we visited! We conceded defeat and headed back and had a drink at the caravan park bar.

The Kimberley was once under a shallow tropical sea during the Devonian Period over 350 million years ago. Geikie Gorge (National Park), formed by the Fitzroy River cutting through the remains over this ancient reef, is 14km long and only accessible during the dry season, late May to October. 350 million year old fossils are clearly and easily seen throughout the gorge. Sheer yellow, ochre and grey limestone walls house deep gorges, which are reflected in the pools of the river. Fossils can be seen throughout the layers of the rock as can the parks wide range of wildlife that have adapted to a number of unique habitats. Friendly freshwater crocodiles, stingrays, sharks and sawfish intermingle with rock wallabies, euros and the many species of beautiful birds, each finding its own niche in the diverse ecosystem. Spent a very relaxing hour on the boat tour.





 

 





THE VARIANCE IN ROCK COLOUR
INDICATES THE HEIGHT OF THE
WATER DURING THE WET SEASON 



 

NGUMPAN CLIFF LOOKOUT

TUESDAY 27.08.2013: Pulled up at the Ngumpan Cliff Lookout Rest Area, which is 96 km SE of Fitzroy Crossing - great facilities and view.

 

 

MUELLER RANGES

SUNDAY 25 - MONDAY 26.08.2013: WE DID IT - 215.4 kms in one day - oh the feeling of sheer triumph! Stayed at the Mary Pool (Mary River) Rest Area 108 km west of Halls Creek and revived after such a long haul. No sooner pulled in than a charter helicopter landed, the tour bus stopped for afternoon tea, the Kimberley Mobile Dental Bus arrived and one final look out the window revealed a little touch of 'wild life' - never boring!


 

 

PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK

DINED AT THE OPEN AIR RESTAURANT

SAT 24.08.2013: Did not wait till the seventh day to rest - we rested today! Last night in a very poorly lit camp ground we took the poodles out for a pit stop. Feeling somewhat fatigued it was no surprise to Sybil when she heard 'snorting' coming from Carole and Shayden's direction. Great, Leyland No. 1 has fallen asleep standing up! "Are you alright, yes, are you, yes?" "What's the noise, don't know?" - as the snorting got closer, we moved faster and adjourned to safety.

OUR 'SNORTER'

TRIVIA FACT:  Kapok trees and bushes (Cochlospermum spp) are found across the north, in open-woodland. They grow particularly well on rocky hill slopes and ridges. These trees drop all their leaves during the dry season but become covered at this time with bright yellow flowers. The kapok has been used as cotton wool for stuffing cushions and in Aboriginal body decoration. The flowering and fruiting of the Kapok Tree also aligns with the nesting and birth cycle of the crocodile.



PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK

FRIDAY 23.08.2013: 7.00am pick up and we were on the bus to The Bungle Bungle Range for a day tour (poodles were left in the air conditioned comfort of the motorhome). There is no way you would tackle this unless you had a serious 4 wheel drive, plus a great deal of experience on this type of road - an hour and a half of non-stop bone shattering corrugated dirt road. When first entering the bus we were somewhat concerned about the age and obvious fitness levels of the group, but this was not a problem. The options were laid out and you had the choice of the type, time frame and length of walks that you would like to undertake. 

LEAGUE OF NATIONS TOUR - ENGLISH, SPANISH,
SWISS, DUTCH AND AUSTRALIAN

CAN BE UP TO 27 RIVERS
TO CROSS ON THE WAY IN -
NO WET SEASON, ONLY 2

We headed off to "The Cathedral Gorge" on a thick sandy 2 km return trail that follows the Piccaninny Creek. Striped sandstone beehives, creek beds and potholes, looming cliffs, evidence of waterfalls that cascade down steep rock faces during the wet season and honeycomb weathering which open into a huge amphitheatre. The amphitheatre sits on a major northwest trending vertical joint line where undercutting of soft sandstone has taken place beneath a waterfall.





The "Domes Walk" is a 700 metre loop road which takes you past sandstone domes that rise majestically from the spinifex-covered sand plains. These rounded, sandstone towers are fragile giants, each encased in a thin, protective skin of orange bands of iron oxide and grey to black bands of cyanobacteria. A skin is deposited on the surface by water seeping through the sandstone. If the banded skin is damaged the sandstone is rapidly eroded away. 



The last walk of the day was the Echidna Chasm. This is a moderate two-kilometre return walk, with a challenging climb at the end. This is a spectacular long narrow chasm, with livistona palms waving from the 200 metre high ridges above. The rock face is a conglomerate; a type of rock made of pebbles and boulders embedded in a sandy matrix.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One minor detail with this walk - from beginning to end the pathway was made up of all sizes  of rounded loose rocks. We made it in without difficulty, through narrowed walls, up and down laddered stairways and over large rocks. Began the return trip and as always since Sybil's 'throw down' in Tasmania, she has been relegated to carrying the water bottle and Carole the camera. Some 50 metres to the end of the walk and down she goes. One of those moments when you hope the earth will just open on contact, but no. Two couples rushed to aid the fallen, with Carole (being so accustomed to this activity), on her "just sit up slowly". The concerned were sent on ahead as Sybil finally made it to her feet. The bonus - Sybil has learnt to fall face down in the dirt and keep her hat on, plus the metal water bottle was thrown so far and the indent so large that it has to be replaced. Outcome - one strained ankle and one very fat bruised knee and pride! The aim is to have a 'throw down' in every State in Australia - well on the way! 

The photo to the left was kindly taken at the start of the day by one of our fellow travellers. Look at those fresh faced, ready to tackle anything "Leyland Trekkers". The following is at the end of the day - we placed our 'banjos' on the ground for the photo shoot!

ELEPHANT ROCKS

Morning tea, lunch and dinner (back at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park), were part of the day's tour. The Bungle Bungle Range was surreal, absolutely spectacular and any other superlative you can muster - loved it! Little disappointed in the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park customer service or lack there of - for $45.00 per night power and water outages without notice led to many unhappy campers. Also, no garbage bins which meant you had to collect all your garbage and take it with you.

PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK

THURSDAY 22.08.2013: Walked into the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park Office to register and there on the notice board were two vacancies for a half hour afternoon flight over The Bungle Bungle Range in a fixed wing aircraft - we booked them. 

Let us begin with the aircraft - there were 6 passengers, plus the pilot. Oh, forgot the 3 large boulders placed in the nose to obviously counter the tail weight! We were asked to pour ourselves in one by one and it cannot be explained what it is like to try and squeeze each of your body parts past seats, people and fixed structures! Finally in place we headed for The Bungle Bungle Range which is renowned for its' striking sandstone domes, striped with orange and grey bands. Erosion by creeks, rivers and weathering in the past 20 million years has carved out these domes, along with spectacular chasms and gorges. Purnululu is the name given to the sandstone area by Aboriginal people and covers almost 240,000 hectares. The Bungle Bungle Range has been a tourist destination since 1983 and was granted World Heritage status in 2003.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Special mention must be made of this poor man in the white singlet seated next to the pilot. He had been used for leverage by passengers entering and exiting the plane and by the end of the flight had to be surgically extracted from the dashboard! 

TURKEY CREEK - VICTORIA HIGHWAY JUNCTION

WEDNESDAY 21.08.2013: Stayed at Dunham River Rest Area between Turkey Creek and Victoria Highway Junction. It is a very, very, very rare event and one that requires special mention - following is a photograph of a SUNRISE, yes a sunrise, miracles do happen!

KUNUNURRA, W.A. - POPULATION: 5,619

WE F-I-N-A-L-L-Y MADE IT!

SUNDAY 18 - TUESDAY 20.08.2013: Poodle Palace was checked over by Quarantine Officials and we made our way across the border into Western Australia. First stop Kununurra - an Aboriginal name meaning 'the meeting of big waters'. It was established in 1960 to service the Ord River Scheme. The pastoral history of the area is well documented in books by Dame Mary Durack. Had booked into the Hidden Valley Caravan Park which is situated on the border of Mirima National Park with the aim of organising a flight or tour to The Bungle Bungle Range. After a visit to the Information Centre and after great debate, it was decided that it was a better option with regard to the dogs and ease of organisation to book from the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park, even though the caravan site costs were far greater. Decision was made so we spent time sight seeing our way round Kununurra.

CELEBRITY TREE PARK

Celebrity Tree Park was opened in 1984 and displays a variety of tree species as planted by famous visitors to Kununurra. John Farnham, Kate Ceberano,  HRH Princess Anne and Richard Clapton just to name a few.



NOW THIS IS A BONSAI!

 

KUNUNURRA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kelly's Knob Lookout provided scenic views of the town and valley.

MIRIMA NATIONAL PARK

 

Mirima National Park is small with sandstone ranges, cliffs and valleys, similar in appearance to parts of the Bungle Bungle Range. The park features 350 million year old sandstone.

Filled up with petrol before leaving Kununurra and in the park opposite were eight red tailed black parrots.