DUARINGA - POPULATION: 247

MONDAY 26 - TUESDAY 27.9.2011: The day has dawned and oh the pain! We have muscles that were not even aware of their role in the human body - no amount of glucosamine will suffice! We are leaving Sapphire today - have thoroughly enjoyed our time here and would have no problems staying on, although we may need to upgrade the pampered pooches to more serviceable models!

PARK AT DUARINGA REST AREA

Carnarvon Gorge was to be the next stop, but after many phone calls it proved too difficult to organise accommodation for the puddles. As a result, we have changed our route home.  Duaringa is a small town which lies on the Capricorn Highway, 116 kilometres west of Rockhampton.  The name is derived from the aboriginal words 'D'warra D'nanjie', meaning a meeting place on the swamp oaks. The township came to life in the 1860's due to its locality of two roads, one going south to Springsure and one west to the Mackenzie River at Bedford Crossing. The town itself was not populated until around 1876 with the opening of the Dawson Railway Bridge and the rail line continuing to Duaringa. Staying at Duaringa Rest Area for 2 days. Went for a drive to look at the area and came across the Duaringa Hotel - has to be said that the photo does do the accommodation justice!

ACCOMMODATION AT DUARINGA HOTEL

SAPPHIRE

MALLEEFOWLS

SATURDAY 24 - SUNDAY 25.9.2011: Woke to the usual 6.00 am resident malleefowl alarm. They diligently make their way round to each of the vans and herald the start of the day. Saturday - rest day, today - THE REAL DEAL! We have practiced our fossicking for 2 days now and today are making our way to the gem fields. We signed up with "Tag Along Tours" - you drive out to the site, equipment is provided and you aim to make your fortune. The brochure stated "you will get your hands and clothes a bit dirty!" - Understatement! Poodle Palace made it on the dirt road up until the last 3 klms and we were then driven the final leg in a four wheel drive. Keith from Fascination Gem Fossicking explained the process, provided the equipment and then sent us on our way - some 500 metres from everyone else! 

STEP 1: THE PICK

STEP 2:THE SHOVEL

  



Carole has excelled herself with the choice of activities such as the Lava Tubes, Cobold Gorge and the Volcano - has to be said, they paled into insignificance. Sybil did 70% of the pick work, although there is no photographic evidence as she had collapsed by the time a photo opportunity arose.

STEP 3: WASHING AT THE WHILLOUGHBY

Made our way back to the caravan park with some trinkets from the day's activity. Finished the day watching the parade of cows and horses making their way home along the main road. This trip tends to remind you of the "box of chocolates" - never sure what you are going to get! 

STEP 4: THE HUGE SAPPHIRES!





SAPPHIRE

FRIDAY 23.9.2011: Began the day at Armfest fossicking for the "big one"! Ended the day by having a night on the town - Pizza Night at Pat's Gems. Pat's Gems Shop began in 1979 then grew from a small cutting room to a gemshop, cafe/restaurant, sapphire fossicking park and cabin accommodation. Have to say that we felt rather conspicuous by our presence! The humans, poodles and 'Poodle Palace' assimilate so well into the community!

PAT'S GEMS

RUBYVALE - POPULATION: 510

THURSDAY 22.9.2011: First tourist stop - on your way to Rubyvale, the Tropic of Capricorn which runs right by the Tin Shed Bottle Shop. Yes, in the middle of what appears to be nowhere was the Tin Shed Bottle Shop and yes we stopped there also! Then a short drive to Rubyvale and the Miners Heritage. This is a commercial operation which conducts guided tours through Australia's largest underground sapphire mine. 

Finished the day at Monique's Mine -a fossicking park that takes you through the washing and identifying process involved with finding your own sapphires and zircons.

SEEKING THE BIG ONE!

Rubyvale is a town approximately 61 kilometres west of Emerald. Situated in a region called the Gemfields, sapphires are mined extensively in the area.

SAPPHIRE - POPULATION: 550

OUTSIDE THE CARAVAN PARK

WEDNESDAY 21.9.2011: Arrived in Sapphire - now this is what we are talking about. It is the type of place where you could disappear from the radar without a trace! We are staying at Blue Gem "The Friendly" Caravan and Tourist Park.

Recently the park has topped up the internal road with wash (gravel from an ancient river bed which can carry sapphire and zircon), from a local mine. As you travel the road you are invited to fossick. Whenever Carole cannot be found no guesses as to where she is - she has even acquired a mentor! Ron came to Sapphire for a week and twelve months later he is still here.

 

MENTOR RON & STUDENT!

EMERALD - POPULATION: 10,999

TUESDAY 20.9.2011: The still naive travellers pulled into the rather large town of Emerald. We had expected a somewhat smaller village! Emerald is a large, modern country town that was established in 1879 as a base for the building of the western railway. The town is named after 'Emerald Downs Hill', a lush green hill located just north of town. We headed for the Freedom Camp "in the car park under the bridge outside the Botanic Gardens". Arrived at 4.00pm, no-one in sight, changed position twice, speculated about our safety and finally decided that we were close enough to town to dial 000 if need be. 4.05pm motorhomes and caravans as far as the eye could see!

THERESA CREEK DAM

WHAT WE HAD EXPECTED

MONDAY 19.9.2011: The information read "Camp spot 22 km SW of Clermont. See Caretaker." Sounded idealic, our sort of retreat - driving along our expectations rose, then we arrived! Car park was full, boat ramps, marinas, caravans as far as the eye could see, amenities and an enormous playground just packed with children. There was water skiing, boats speeding with the kids being towed screaming behind and oh by the way, school holidays have just started! As it had taken time to travel and it only cost $10.00 per night we stayed the two nights.

REALITY!

Theresa Creek Dam was constructed by the Blair Athol Coal Project in 1983. Built to ensure a reliable water supply for Clermont, the lake behind the dam wall covering an impressive 300 hectares. We made our way to "the other side" of the dam where car port like structures have been erected. Select one that is vacant, park and take up residence - excellent idea!



CLERMONT - POPULATION: 1,854

CARRIAGE FROM THE RAIL WAGON MURALS PROJECT

SUNDAY 18.9.2011: Ludwig Leichhardt was the first European to pass through the Clermont area in 1845, but it was the discovery of gold in 1861 that was responsible for the establishment of the town. The town reserve was proclaimed on 25 March 1864. It is named after Clermont-Ferrand, France. Copper was discovered soon after. In the 1880s up to 4000 Chinese people were resident in Clermont, mining for gold and copper. This led to racial riots and the Chinese were removed from the region in 1888. The railway was extended north from Emerald to Clermont in February 1884. However, no passenger trains are available to or from Clermont.

The town was originally established on low lying ground next to a lagoon or billabong, but flooding was always a problem, with four substantial floods occurring between 1864 and 1896. The greatest flood, in 1916, killed 65 people out of a town population of 1,500 and remains one of Australia's worst natural disasters in terms of life lost. Following the 1916 flood, many of the wooden buildings of the town were moved using steam traction engines to a new town site on higher ground. A local amateur photographer, George Pullar took numerous photographs of the moving buildings, published in the 1980s as "A Shifting Town". Today, Clermont is a major hub for the large coal mines in the region as well as serving agricultural holdings.

Rio Tinto is currently constructing the Clermont Mine, located 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) northwest of the township of Clermont in central Queensland. When the mine reaches full capacity (expected in 2013) it will produce up to 12.2 million tonnes of thermal coal for international markets.

We jumped into Poodle Palace and headed for Theresa Creek Dam.

BELYANDO CROSSING - POPULATION: 5

SATURDAY 17.9.2011: Needed to stop for petrol on what was to be one of our longer driving days. Pulled into the Belyando Crossing Service Station.

There was a small motel and spaces for caravans at the back. The 'Dog Policy' was fairly evident. Carole asked "I suppose this would be a silly question, but can we stay the evening given we have dogs?" Response "not a problem." Now know the meaning of mixed messages!

CHARTERS TOWERS - POPULATION: 7,979

MUNICIPAL LIBRARY

FRIDAY 16.9.2011: Stayed the night at Charters Towers Tourist Park. 'The World' as it is known, is a scenic gold mining city. From a chance discovery of gold in 1872 by a young Aboriginal horse boy, Charters Towers soon turned into a bustling metropolis. At the height of the gold rush the town included 11 crushing mills, 65 hotels and one of the very first regional Stock Exchanges in Australia. The 'One Square Mile' takes in the city's heritage listed World Theatre, City Hall and the Post Office. 

TOWERS HILL

Once a significant allied military base in WW11, Towers Hill pays testament to this with some 30 concrete bunkers dotted throughout the surrounding hills.

TOWERS HILL AMPITHEATRE

FLETCHER CREEK

FLETCHER CREEK

TUESDAY 13 – THURSDAY 15.9.2011: Pulled up at Fletcher Creek Freedom Park which is situated 40 klms north of Charters Towers. This is a perfect river setting with amenities, a vast area for vans and allowance to stay a month. Fortunately we completed “Cattle Training 101” at Broke as the cattle from a nearby farm spend most of their day by the river opposite where we are parked. Madison in h-e-r wisdom has had a few Mexican standoffs “across the water” from her foes. We enjoyed a campfire and nearly savoured Carole’s “dough boys” over the coals. Decision was made that there was too much water in the mixture and amount of dough on the stick too great – our supper was consumed by the fire! Carole was 18 when she last used the recipe - just a few clicks between “dough boys!” We have had a relaxing time here and would gladly stay longer.



"THE HERD"





PRE "DOUGH BOYS"

GREENVALE - POPULATION: 255

GREENVALE CARAVAN PARK VISTA

MONDAY 12.9.2011: Left the oasis that is Joe and Jo’s Mt Surprise Bedrock Village Caravan Park. This is a beautiful caravan park, with staff ensuring your stay is an absolute delight. Travelled to Greenvale Caravan Park and Cabins – Greenvale is 203 kms north of Charters Towers on the dusty Gregory Development Road. Greenvale is aptly named with its lush foliage and gardens adorning cul-de-sacs of attractive brick homes with tiled roofs. Built to house 220 mine workers by Queensland Nickel Ltd in 1972, the town thrived for 20 years, and the Greenvale Nickel Mine yielded 40 million tonnes of ore! When the mine was exhausted, the little town declined to 16 residents. In 1994, Melbourne millionaire businessman Chris Delios passed through the town, and the next day offered to buy it all from the mining company, thus saving it from potential demolition. Today Greenvale is blossoming once again with several new mining interests opening up in the region.

Greenvale has an outstanding range of facilities for its size, including an Olympic pool and a 9-hole golf course. A huge nickel reclaimer wheel from the old mine stands by the caravan park. The rare ‘Sausage Tree’ (Kigelia pinnata) is one of only 4 such specimens in Australia. A monument to country music legend Stan Costa stands outside the Three Rivers Hotel (another little oasis), whose famous song of the same name records his time working on the Greenvale Line.  

MOUNT SURPRISE

BEDROCK CARAVAN PARK

SUNDAY 11.9.2011: We both woke feeling sore, tired and irritable – so much for the experts that believe in the power of exercise! In the 24 hours to follow Carole created an all-time record for either totally destroying or severely disabling all that she touched. The list included:

   · 2 broken champagne glasses – knocked over and lost the bottle of champagne (probably the biggest issue of the day)

·    Broke the rod connected to the external door that prevents it from “swinging in the breeze”

·    2 cupboard catches - broken

·    The frame that holds the reversing camera in place - broken

·    Finally, the cold water shower tap in the amenities block came off midway through the shower. Unable to seek help at that point of time and acutely aware of the “large” notices indicating water conservation, after what seemed like an eternity Carole was final able to reconnect the tap.

PUTT PUTT GOLF COURSE AT BEDROCK PARK

     To assist with the apathy we were all feeling Madison chose to jump on the table where Carole had been working for some three days on a jigsaw puzzle – yep, jigsaw puzzle was stored away!
    
We again had tea with the Bedrock Village staff and other travellers, plus enjoyed the campfire sing-along - Carole retired to bed earlier than usual!

MOUNT SURPRISE

SATURDAY 10.9.2011: Bedrock Village run tours to many of the sightseeing venues so we booked for a half day tour of Undara Volcanic National Park. Several days ago Sybil made a harmless statement about the need to incorporate a little more walking in the day – HA! Having only just gained an upright position after Cobbold Gorge today proved to be an even greater challenge!

JESS



KALKANI VOLCANO



Jess was our “Savannah Guide” for the day. Savannah Guides protect and conserve natural and cultural resources in the tropical savannahs of northern Australia. Compared to the Cobbold Gorge guide who did not really have an interest, Jess had a passion and knowledge for the area that made for a fantastic day from start to finish, plus an ability to ensure that all tour party members irrespective of ability levels were able to appreciate the scenery.

ENTRANCE TO THE LAVA TUBES

We were driven out to the National Park and our first stop was at the crater of Kalkani Volcano which is some 2.5 klms in circumference – we walked it, up hill and down dale! Undara means ‘long way’ in Aboriginal language. This national park is part of the McBride volcanic province with 164 volcanoes. Undara was the protagonist of the largest single volcano eruption on Earth about 190,000 years ago, when the external layer of the 1200°C lava flowing along a river bed cooled down and became a crust, while massive internal volumes kept on spreading producing  hollow tubes of about 20 metres wide and 10 metres high. The Lava Tubes - you have to feel a sense of trepidation when your guide makes the statement “it doesn’t matter how you tackle the climb, if need be just go down on your bottom!”

LAVA TUBES



The puddles again spent the day in the comfort of their own home, with Bedrock Village staff taking them for a walk and toilet break – hard life!

MOUNT SURPRISE - POPULATION: 162

FRIDAY 9.9.2011: Headed back down the Savannah Way to Mt Surprise. Passed two road trains, with one scoring our second stone chip to the windscreen! We are again staying at the Bedrock Village Caravan Park and night one we joined the village staff for tea and a sing-a-long round the campfire. Yes we all know how well Sybil sings, but Carole is so good that she didn't even bother!

GEORGETOWN - POPULATION: 254

THURSDAY 8.9.2011: Arranged for a trip out to Cobbold Gorge some 80 klms from Georgetown. Robin Hood Station, supposedly so-called because it adjoined Sherwood mining lease is currently owned by the Terry family. The geological history of the rocks around Cobbold Creek Gorge and the Forsayth area which it is a part, spans almost 1700 million years. We walked to the top of the gorge and viewed the area from above. The very hot day had the two "athletes" forming the rear guard!

CROCODILE SUNNING ITSELF!



Spectacular scenery considering this is a semi-arid environment. The nature of the gorge indicates that it is a very young feature. Because the diversion of Cobbold Creek happened only recently (perhaps even in the last 10,000 years or so), erosion has not yet had time to widen the gorge. Below water level the walls are undercut and extend back many metres in places. The boat tour takes you through the centre of the gorge.



The poor poodles had to remain in the airconditioned Poodle Palace and have the lovely Midway Caravan Park & Service Station staff come and take them for a walk and toilet break. We are still recovering from heat stroke!

MT SURPRISE/GEORGETOWN

TUESDAY 6 - WEDNESDAY 7.9.2011: Stayed at Mt Surprise Bedrock Village Caravan Park on our way to Georgetown - great park.

Set out to Georgetown Midway Caravan Park & Service Station. We had 90 klms to travel and Carole had made mention of the fact that it was narrow. Approximately 60% of the dual carriageway narrowed to a single road requiring you to move onto the gravel if an oncoming car passes - not such an issue for the four wheel drives, but a little more difficult in the motorhome. Good news is that we made it safely, without passing any road trains, bad news is that we have to return via the same route!

ATHERTON - POPULATION: 7,068

MONDAY 5.9.2011: Visited the Crystal Caves at Atherton. Over 40 years Rene Boissevain has made it his passion to collect the best of treasures from all over the world, bringing them together in a spectacular display. More than 600 crystal formation and fossil specimens are on display.

This is the world's biggest Amethyst Geode and has been awarded the title of "The Empress of Uruguay". Standing 3.5 metres tall and weighing 2.5 tonnes.

CAROLE IN "GEOLOGY HEAVEN" - ASHTON (HOLLY & AARON'S SON), WOULD LOVE THIS!

Continued onto Ravenshoe and stayed at the Archer Creek Rest Area.

MAREEBA - POPULATION: 6,806

SUNDAY 4.9.2011: It only took 30 minutes to reach Mareeba, but considerably longer driving winding roads and eventually a dirt track, to arrive at our accommodation at Mareeba Granite Gorge Nature Park. Well worth the drive - there are only 6 powered sites and for the rest it is a case of "drive in and park where you like". A 40 acre bush setting that really has been untouched. The turkeys free roam the area causing the dogs great confusion (never seen a turkey before), plus they gobble a morning revelry!
The property includes the Granite Gorge Nature Park which has resident rock wallabies. The wallabies have been so well trained that they come on cue for their hand feeding. As the sign posting suggests, the self guided tour is somewhat rustic!
 

Mareeba is known for its fine weather, 300 dry days a year - it rained today!