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| 'HAPPY HOUR' IN THE BEER GARDEN |
THURS 25.07.2013: We returned to the Outback Caravan Park for the evening. The park has a good feel to it and we thoroughly enjoyed our time here.
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| OUTBACK CARAVAN PARK |
Friday, July 26, 2013
TENNANT CREEK - POPULATION 3,062
WED 24.07.2013: Headed out for an overnight trip to Devils Marbles (104km east of Tennant Creek). Around 1700 million years ago, molten magma squeezed through ancient sandstones of the earth's crust and cooled into hard granite rock, the Devils Marble Granite. Shrinkage as the granite cooled and pressures within the earth caused right angled patterns called joints to form. As the overlaying rocks were eroded by wind and water the granite came closer to the surface. Groundwater filtered down along the joints and reacted with some of the minerals in the granite to form clays. Weathering was greatest at the corners of the blocks where more surfaces were exposed. During the construction of the Overland Telegraph Link in 1872 John Lewis first recorded the name "Devils Marbles."
During rains water collects in the rock holes high up on the rocks. Kaytetye, Warumungu, Anmatyerr and Alyawarr people would stop to hunt and drink here on their travels around their country.
Karlwekarlwe in the Dreamtime -
"This is a really secret place. I've done ceremonies here. It's a sacred place. You have to keep it well."
A Senior Traditional Owner.
Karlwekarlwe literally means round objects. It is rich in dreaming sites, places where special events happened in the Altywerre Wirnkarra or Dreamtime.
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| AS THE SUN SET THE ROCKS CHANGE TO A RED HUE |
Aboriginal people believe that people from the dreaming at Karlwekarlwe live in the caves under the rocks here.
The Dreaming Is Still Here:
'They're real people like us. You can see them.
A long time ago I went with my billy can down to the creek to get some water.
One of these secret people came out and started playing with me.
I couldn't go away.
My mother came and got me, saved me.
After that we never camped at this place again, never.
They're kind these secret people, but they can make you mad.
They can change you into one of them.
They can say "Follow me", and you can't go back.
It happened like that for my cousin. He disappeared.
The old people made a big ceremony singing to the ground and the rocks to make them let my cousin come back.
We've lost that song now.
We've got no song to bring children back.'
A Senior Traditional Owner.
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| AS WE PASSED THIS MARBLE WE HEARD MOVEMENT - FORTUNATELY CAROLE WAS ABLE TO PUSH IT BACK INTO PLACE! |
We stayed at the Devils Marbles Campground ($6.00 per head), with the marbles all round us. The photographs do not really translate the impact this area has on you. Surreal it probably the most descriptive word - well worth the visit. Just on dusk we saw our first wild dingo which made its way through the camp and into the bush.
Thursday, July 25, 2013
MORE TRAVEL DAYS!
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| TENNANT CREEK |
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| TENNANT CREEK |
AVON DOWNS - WUNARA STORE - NORTHERN TERRITORY
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| WELCOME TO THE NORTHERN TERRITORY! |
SATURDAY 20.07.2013: We had enjoyed the Camooweal stop so much that we had planned on staying another night. Wind and of course the accompanying dust storm that lasted all night and was still in progress when we woke led to the decision that we would be spending the day indoors and as such, we might as well be inside and drive. Great news, we have finally crossed the border into the Northern Territory! Driving along and we encounter an extended stretch of road works. Came to one section and a stationary road train was unable to safely manoeuvre his load round the trees - traffic came to a halt and we waited. One lad working on the road offered to remove the branch with a saw. He scaled the tree and set to - no result. Finally a rope was used to pull the tree back far enough for the truck to move through - oh the thrill of the journey! Spent the evening at Soudan Bore Rest Area. On arrival at the rest area Madison and Shayden were taken outside to the toilet, but the FLIES! We actually beat the dogs back into the motorhome!
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
CAMOOWEAL - POPULATION: 200
THURS 18 - FRI 19.07.2013: Pulled into downtown Camooweal intent on looking at the Heritage Centre, Freckleton's Store and the Drover's Camp Information Centre, but none of the above were open! Camooweal is located just 14km from the Northern Territory border on Barkly Highway. It was settled as a service centre of Barkly Tablelands properties and was a hub for the droving industry. Next stop petrol - Mt Isa petrol $1.61 a litre, Camooweal $2.00. We had only travelled 180 km so that was quite an impressive increase! Decided to pick up a few items at the Post Office/Grocery Store. The owner kindly offered us a basket which we later realised would have required a month's salary to pay for all the items filling it. Just a small example - 6 tiny, tiny lamb chops $25.00 and 500g of beef mince $15.00. We left with our dozen eggs ($6.00 and not even free range).
Stayed at Camooweal Billabong on the Georgina River. Great outlook and although popular, was a very relaxing time. Saw a feral cat obviously wild for a long time, drinking from the billabong. It had adopted all the traits of a tiger - same gait, speed and guile.
Friday, July 19, 2013
MT ISA TO CAMOOWEAL
TUES 16 - WED 17.07.2013: Pulled into the WWII Airfield 50 km north west of Mt Isa and slept for two days! Beside the Airfield was the Mount Isa to Camooweal Road which was built during WWII as part of the inland defence road system. In 1941 work commenced on the road. By virtually working round the clock the road was gravelled and bridges over Spear Creek and Buckley, Georgina and Rankine Rivers neared completion in October 1942. In 1943 the road was sealed. Australian and American Military traffic on the east-west had volumes as high as 1,000 vehicles per day. The adjacent road constructed in 1994 provides a stark contrast in standards.
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| TRAVELLING WORKSHOP 15 MILE CAMP |
State of Origin evening and no reception! Fortunately another traveller had a satellite dish and set up an external television for all to watch. Great night, but not so great game - even worse, we were surrounded by Queenslanders - not happy campers!
Thursday, July 18, 2013
MT ISA - POPULATION: 23,000
SUN 14 - MON 15.07.2013: Mt Isa is an iconic Australian mining town discovered in 1923 by prospector John Campbell Miles. 'The Isa' is dominated by the sprawling Mt Isa Mine with its 270m exhaust stack from the lead smelter. Mount Isa Mine is the nation's deepest underground mine and is still the largest single producer of copper, silver, lead and zinc in the world. We stayed at the AAOK Moondarra Caravan Park which very much catered for the miners working in the area and as such, the shift changes at the mine were reflected in the caravan park traffic - did not have a great deal of sleep over the two nights! As we had experienced the Underground Copper Mine Tour in Tasmania we elected not to sign on for the Mount Isa Mine Tour. Instead we visited the Underground Hospital. In 1942 the Japanese had bombed Darwin and it was feared that Mount Isa could be the next target. The underground hospital was tunnelled into the side of a hill behind Mount Isa Base Hospital and had surgical, medical and maternity facilities, and even an outpatient's department and operating theatres. Fortunately it was never used for the purpose it was built. In the 1950's the entrances were covered, then in 1977 it was 'rediscovered'.
Termite Trivia: Spinifex Termites - build the largest mounds of all termites. Mounds average from 5 up to 7 metres high. It mainly feeds on spinifex, but will eat other types of vegetation.
Magnetic Termites - build tall, flat mounds with sharp, blade like ridges which always align north and south. They reach a height of 4 metres, 3 metres on the thick north-south and 1 metre on the east-west side. They have nothing to do with magnetism, rather they build mounds to avoid exposure to the sun.
Uses: termite mounds were used for floors - when wet and pulverized they set as hard as cement. Used for tennis courts and as ovens for baking bread.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
TRAVEL DAYS
THURSDAY 11 - SATURDAY 13.07.2013: Left Winton and headed further north west. We had travelled for klms with very, very, very flat scenery and all of a sudden we came across these mesas and buttes - little out of context. Stayed at the Kynuna East Rest Area (18km east of Kynuna - population: 96).
Onward to The Blue Heeler Hotel at Kynuna. The 'Blue Heeler' Hotel was established in the 1860's as a staging point for Cobb & Co. Coaches. 'Banjo' Paterson recorded in 'Golden Water', that through this window he saw Macphersons of Dagworth pass champagne 'to those very shearers' who had burnt their woolshed, wool and 143 young 'jumbucks'. This extraordinary event ended the great shearers strike of 1894 and began the legend of 'Waltzing Matilda'. The song was baptised at the Blue Heeler Hotel with that champagne in January 1895. |
| BLUE HEELER HOTEL |
Carole has been clocking up her driving hours in preparation for our longer drives, but we have had to implement a "Peel three tiered driving program":
1. Just drive.
2. Drive and wave and/or acknowledge oncoming traffic.
3. Drive, wave and glance at scenery without driving toward the feature - ah the wonders of power steering!
Stopped for petrol and across our path strolled two brolgas. Later in the day Carole spotted a wild camel, but unfortunately we were unable to take a photo. We have been so lucky to see all the animals that we have puddling round in their natural habitat.
Drove through the town of McKinlay (population: 20) which had its biggest moment of fame (so far), when it played a role in the internationally acclaimed Australian movie 'Crocodile Dundee' and its sequels. The Walkabout Creek Hotel (first called the Federal Hotel), has existed since the 1900's - had to stop for a drink! Stayed the night at the Fullarton River North Rest Area. 
Moved onto the Fountain Springs Rest Area - found a great spot. Around 9.00pm a car pulled up next to us and out jumped four 'youngins' who erected a tent what felt like, under our awning! Two slept in the tent, the other two in the car - the 'cougher' unfortunately chose the tent! So glad the dogs did not require a toilet stop during the night otherwise we had visions of having to excuse ourselves and step over the tent to exit the motorhome - they were noisily gone by 8.00am.
FOOTNOTE: We may need to have Shayden shod once we hit the Northern Territory. Oh the burrs, stones and harsh grasses are all too much for a delicate soul to handle - Madison as usual is unaffected!
Monday, July 15, 2013
WINTON - POPULATION: 980
WEDNESDAY 10.07.2013: We stayed at the Tattersalls Hotel Caravan Park and of course later learnt that we could have parked free of charge at the back of the North Gregory Hotel. First stop for the evening was a drink at Tattersalls Hotel (built in 1882), and to listen to Anne Bavin "Sax and the Single Girl" - yes Anne played the saxophone - very entertaining.
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| ANNE BAVIN "SAX AND THE SINGLE GIRL" |
Onward to a Nostalgia Night at the Royal Open Air Theatre. The open air theatre was built in 1938 on the site of the first Royal, which was constructed in 1918 when silent movies were all the rage. The picture show started with the old pre-show slide advertisements and screened comedy shorts and historic Winton footage. Before we left Winton we visited Arno's Park - Arno Grotjahn's wall contains almost every household item you can imagine. The wall is 2 metres high and extends at least 70 metres and took 15 years to complete.
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| ARNO GROTJAHN'S WALL |
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| GUINNESS BOOK OF RECORDS WORLD'S LARGEST DECK CHAIR DONATED TO THE ROYAL THEATRE |
LONGREACH
MON 8 - TUES 9.07.2013: We signed up with Kinnon & Co. for a Cobb & Co. ride, plus tent show. Just some background on this family that you have to admire - in 2006 after their fifth year of consistent drought on their Outback QLD Cattle Station Richard and Marisse Kinnon and their children Abigail, Jeremy and Lane realised they needed to do something to retain their cherished grazing land. With their passion for history and heritage Kinnon & Co was born. They still have their land and each year the business has grown and added additional attractions. 
Left the poodles in air conditioned comfort and walked up to the Kinnon & Co shop - bought our bush hats, much improved on our previous Coles specials, but of course, SO much more expensive! We were serenaded whilst we had lunch then moved into the Harry Redford Old Time Tent Show. Harry Redford or "Captain Starlight", was Australia's most famous cattle duffer - excellent.
Left the poodles in air conditioned comfort and walked up to the Kinnon & Co shop - bought our bush hats, much improved on our previous Coles specials, but of course, SO much more expensive! We were serenaded whilst we had lunch then moved into the Harry Redford Old Time Tent Show. Harry Redford or "Captain Starlight", was Australia's most famous cattle duffer - excellent.
The last "adventure" for the day was a ride on the coach into the "outback". In our supposed wisdom when asked who would like to ride on top of the wagon at the back we like school children, shot our hands into the air. Richard Kinnon looked at us and with what can only be deemed a large dose of scepticism said "are you sure?" "Of course", was our ignorant response! Carole assured Sybil that everything would be fine - after all they would have to have OH&S - HAAAA! We had to "mount" the coach via the wheel which Carole scaled without incident, Sybil's effort was none too elegant nor skillful! Sybil rehearsed various "brace" positions and was still not entirely convinced of a positive outcome. We took off - yee ha and all that. WELL - the potholes in the road just about lost us even before we hit the outback track. Then Richard kindly gave us a 500 metre at speed experience so we could avoid the bushrangers - Sybil at this stage would have surrendered! We safely made our way back and exited the coach, although it took some time to extract Sybil's finger and toe nails from the wooden fixtures. Absolutely covered from head to toe in brown dust we sat down to tea and scones - great experience!
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| THE WAGON WE RODE ON - NOTICE THE SIZE OF THE BACK WHEEL! |
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| IMPENDING DOOM! |
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| WE WERE ADVISED TO SELECT A HAT AND A BONNET - CAROLE WISELY PICKED THE HAT AND SYBIL WAS LEFT WITH THE BONNET - GOTTA LOVE THE LOOK! YES, RUSTY THE RED CATTLE DOG OVER OUR SHOULDER IS REAL AS IS THE GUN. |
Next day was spent having hair cuts (human that is), and catching up on the washing and chores - the domestic goddesses are not fans of days like this! Longreach is a great place with lots to do - some of the activities we chose not to visit:
1. Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame
2. QANTAS Founders Outback Heritage Museum
3. Powerhouse Museum
4. Thomson Belle Paddle Wheeler Sunset River Cruise.
1. Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame
2. QANTAS Founders Outback Heritage Museum
3. Powerhouse Museum
4. Thomson Belle Paddle Wheeler Sunset River Cruise.
Saturday, July 13, 2013
LONGREACH
SUNDAY 7.07.2013: Having spent three nights at the Freedom Camp we decided to venture into the Longreach Caravan Park to charge the house batteries and of course leave the air conditioning on for the pampered pooches! The alternate caravan park would have to be one of the largest we have ever seen - surprisingly we opted for a very small van park and for us it was perfect. Booked in for the Swaggies Heartland Cruise with Tania Kernaghan which is through Outback Aussie Tours. Picked up by bus at the park and taken into the "outback". With bottle of wine in hand we boarded the boat and spent a very relaxing afternoon cruising up the Thomson River.
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| THOMSON RIVER |
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| THE TREE BASE OF THIS ANCIENT TREE HAS BEEN USED TO MAKE A SHIELD |
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| COOLABAH TREE - THE ROOTS ABOVE GROUND ARE AS DEEP AS THOSE UNDERGROUND |
We were dropped off on the bank and again boarded the bus. A scenic tour of Longreach with commentary then followed. Next stop the outback dining venue for the evening show - stunning atmosphere! Drinks, nibbles, main course and dessert, plus of course the show and all to the back drop of the setting sun - it was hard to beat!
Only issue of the superb day - we forgot to Frontline Carole before we took her into the outback and unfortunately she returned with a tick in tow!
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| TANIA KERNAGHAN & CAROLE PHOTOGRAPHER RUSHED AND BLURRED THE PHOTO! |
Friday, July 12, 2013
LONGREACH
FRIDAY 5 - SATURDAY 6.07.2013: We dropped Poodle Palace off at the auto electrician and with dogs in tow we hit the town! Lunch in the beer garden of one pub, drink in another. Alternate shopping, one dog minding and the other doing the purchasing. So the day went and we finally made our way back to the workshop around 3.00pm. Have to say the Longreach Auto Electricians were excellent - very thorough. Yes, he had found a loose wire, but could not determine the outcome till we recharge the batteries on electricity. Have to admit though that our day's entertainment in town was far more expensive than the $56.00 bill!
We spent time addressing the washing of e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g dusty. Began with Poodle Palace - we have a new washing record of $11.00. The irony - we washed the pint sized puddles in the Doggy Wash and that cost $10.00! Everything is smelling and looking much improved so what else to do but return to the dust bowl of the Apex Riverside Park!
LONGREACH - POPULATION: 3,357
THURSDAY 4.07.2013: The day has dawned and so far everything is still functioning! We plan to use everything electrical today and book into the auto electrician tomorrow. A bouquet to Watsons' Caravans, Coffs Harbour - we are some two years out of warranty and really they are not obliged to be "on call" to provide ongoing assistance. Damo has also offered to guide the auto electrician through the motorhome electrics if need be.
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| APEX RIVERSIDE PARK IN THE FLOODS OF 2000 THIS AREA WAS 10 FOOT UNDER WATER. THE DAMAGE TO THE GROUND LEFT RATHER LARGE CRACKS WHICH SHAYDEN KEEPS SUCCESSFULLY FALLING IN! |
Where do you begin with Longreach - so much to do that we had trouble making the decisions. Whilst Longreach has a smaller population than the Tilligerry Peninsula it is far more spread and the retail industry is equivalent to a city. During the winter months they ensure every tourist attraction is promoted and when summer hits - the town closes as it is too hot! Longreach is named for its position near the long reach of the river. All the streets are named after birds. Streets that run east-west are named after water birds and those that run north-south are named for land birds. We found a spot at the Apex Riverside Park Freedom Camp which is just out of town - something of a car park in reverse, empties by day, fills by night!
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